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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar high-end names. However, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.